san juan

The Culinary Effervescence of San Juan's Calle Loíza

Barbara Noe Kennedy

Hurricane Maria may have devastated Puerto Rico in 2017, but the island has come back with a vengeance—with a foodie twist. Granted, the dining scene already was starting to boom even before the deadly storm, but from the ruins is arising what locals call an “effervescence.” It’s as if the devastation gave chefs permission to scratch the past and start completely anew. Local ingredients are being reinvented to create culinary wonders far surpassing traditional Puerto Rican fare (as good as Puerto Rican fare is), and chefs are gaining national and international accolades for their creativity.

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