It’s hardly Santaland but as Christmas approaches, Montoo’s bakery in a dingy lane in central Kolkata is one of Kolkata’s hottest addresses. The man I ask for directions says there’s no sign outside, but you’ll know it from the smell of cakes baking. But when I finally get there, it’s more Dickensian than Willie Wonka -- a sweat shop for cakes. The rooms are cramped and dingy, the paint peeling, the passageways narrow. ​