This Year Celebrates the 150th Anniversary of the Birth of Impressionism -- Visit the Sites Where It Ignited

Barbara Noe Kennedy

 

French Impressionism didn’t simply appear one day, fully formed and ready to revolutionize the art world. No, this movement, which gave the world such famous paintings as Monet’s “Impression, Sunrise,” Degas’s “Ballet Rehearsal,” and Renoir’s “Luncheon of the Boating Party,” developed over years of experimentation, collaboration, and relentless creativity.

 

To truly understand its origins, you must travel to the rugged coastlines of Normandy. Here, a group of visionary painters, including Eugène Boudin and a young Claude Monet, gathered in the 1860s to discuss radical new approaches to art. They ventured outside the confines of their studios, lugging their easels to places like Honfleur, Etretat, Deauville, and Trouville. Their mission? To capture the fleeting beauty of natural light, the vibrant hues of the landscape, and the everyday moments of a fast-changing world. These coastal towns became the birthplace of works that would forever change how we see the world.

 

But Normandy was just the beginning. Many of these artists also made their homes in and around Paris, where they roamed the bustling streets of the capital and the serene landscapes of Ile-de-France, painting scenes that would become iconic.

 

 

The defining moment came on April 15, 1874. Frustrated by repeated rejections from the prestigious Paris Salon, a group of these defiant artists organized their own exhibition in the Paris studio of renowned photographer Nadar. The reaction was scathing; one critic famously quipped the paintings looked less finished than wallpaper. Slowly but surely, Impressionism gained traction, emerging as a powerful and transformative force in the art world.

 

Now, as 2024 marks the 150th anniversary of that daring first exhibition, a major event has opened at Washington D.C.’s National Gallery. Many of the paintings that shocked and bewildered viewers in Nadar’s studio have been reunited in an exhibit called “Paris 1874: The Impressionist Moment,” offering a rare glimpse into the birth of a movement.

 

 

And while the anniversary festivities will eventually fade, the landscapes and towns that inspired the Impressionists remain, standing as living tributes to the innovative spirit of these light-loving painters. Most of these sites make easy day trips from Paris—or pack your bags and stay awhile.

 

 

Honfleur

125 miles from Paris, by car or train/bus (Paris–Deauville/Trouville-Honfleur). Total travel time: 2 to 2.5 hours

 

Eugène Boudin, who once called this adorable little fishing village home, wasn’t technically an Impressionist—he was the visionary who paved the way for them. His obsession with capturing fleeting clouds and turbulent waves deeply influenced a young Claude Monet, who grew up in nearby Le Havre. Today, you can immerse yourself in Boudin’s legacy at the stunning Musée Eugène Boudin Honfleur, where his masterful works still evoke the raw beauty of the natural world.

 

Nearby, the historic Ferme Saint Simeon is where the artists gathered to discuss the tenets of Impressionism. The inn continues to welcome guests—albeit a chi-chi one; today it’s a luxurious Relais et Château property. But isn’t the opportunity to sleep in Monet’s room and Corot’s studio priceless?

 

On a less expensive note, you can wander the town’s streets and discover scenes captured by the Impressionists, from the serene harbors to the town’s winding lanes.

 

Tip: While the painters didn’t stay here, the Manoir des Impressionistes is a charming hotel occupying an 18th-century manor house, with colorful gardens, striking sea views, and impressive restaurant.

 

 

Le Havre

125 miles from Paris by car or train (Paris-Le Havre). Total travel time: 2 to 2.5 hours.

 

It’s here along the coast that in 1872 Monet painted his first “Impressionist” canvas, capturing the sun setting over the waters near industrial Le Havre. He titled it “Impression, Soleil Levant” (“Impression, Sunrise”). When the painting was unveiled at the now-legendary 1874 exhibition, critics were less than kind. One sneered, “I had merely the impression of a painting.” Yet, from this dismissive remark, the revolutionary new art movement was given a name.

 

You can find the spot where Monet painted this industrial scene from the window of Hôtel de l’Amirauté along the quai de Southampton. The building was destroyed during World War II (a modern apartment block stands there now), but the view remains nearly the same.

 

Across the street, the Musée d’Art Moderne André Malraux (MuMa) holds the second-largest exhibition of Impressionist paintings in the world, surpassed only by the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. The space is extraordinary—filled with light and views of the harbor at every turn. One wall is lined with an impressive array of works by Boudin, tracking his evolution as an artist, and you’ll also find paintings by Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, and more.

 

 

Étretat

130 miles from Paris by car or train/bus (Paris-Le Havre-Étretat). Total travel time: about 3.5 hours.

 

The Impressionists were irresistibly drawn to the dramatic cliffs and incandescent seascapes of the Alabaster Coast along the English Channel, particularly in the Étretat region. Claude Monet, in particular, fell under its spell, capturing the cliffs at different times of day and in varying weather conditions. His paintings of the elephant-trunk-shaped rock arching off the rocky coast of Étretat are among his most recognizable masterpieces. Eugène Boudin and Gustave Courbet painted here, too.

 

Placards are set up along the beach depicting reproductions of the Impressionists’ paintings, placed exactly where the artists once set up their easels. You can also walk the trail up the opposite cliff, looking back at expansive, unchanged views that enchanted the Impressionists more than a century ago.

 

 

Deauville/Trouville

135 miles from Paris by car or train/bus (Paris–Trouville-Deauville). Total travel time: about 2 hours

 

Just as Impressionism began to take shape, so, too, was a new concept that would change the way people lived: leisure time and beach bathing. As the industrial revolution brought on increased productivity and shorter work hours—and a train system—fashionable Parisians flocked to these coastal towns to unwind, soak in the sea, and stroll along the elegant promenades. And the artists followed.

 

Monet, in particular, is noted for his paintings of beachgoers dressed in their billowing whites, the women carrying parasols, strolling along the boardwalk. While Degas is primarily known for his paintings of ballet dancers and Parisian life, he also created a number of works depicting horse racing, paying close attention to horse anatomy, the details of jockeys, and the social atmosphere.

 

Today, you can walk the same boardwalk that appeared in the Impressionists’ paintings at Deauville and Trouville, plus take in many of the colorful cabins so evocative of the era. The Deauville-La Touques Racecourse, one of the country’s most prestigious and historic racecourses, is still there too.

 

 

Rouen

85 miles from Paris by car or train (Paris-Rouen). Total travel time: about 1.5 hours

 

This enchanting medieval town might be most famous as being the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. However, centuries later, it also became a backdrop for the artistry of Claude Monet. This is where he set up his easel across from the Rouen Cathedral, in what was then a lingerie shop, and painted his series of the cathedral’s façade. He completed more than 30 in total, each capturing the subtle shifts in light and atmosphere throughout the day.

 

Today, you can visit the place where Monet perched his easel, across the street; you’ll need to organize a visit through the tourism bureau (there are plans to turn it into a museum by 2026). You can also admire several of Monet’s Cathedral series at the town’s Musée des Beaux-Arts, which houses an impressive Impressionist collection.

 

 

Maison Caillebotte

22 miles from Paris by car or RER D line (Paris-Yerres). Total travel time: about 30 mins.

 

Gustave Caillebotte is not as widely recognized as some of his contemporaries—perhaps because, as one of the few wealthy artists, he didn’t need to sell or exhibit his work to make a living. When he was 12 years old, his father bought an estate on the outskirts of Paris, complete with expansive grounds and a river, all of which Caillebotte painted over the years. Although he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts (for a short time), it was here that he honed his skills as a painter. He also developed expertise as a boat architect—he even painted canvases of boats he designed. The estate recently opened as a house museum, showcasing not only Caillebotte the painter, but also offering a glimpse into the life of the 19th-century bourgeoisie.

 

Tip: Nearby, the 4-star Les Demeures de Varennes, occupying a centuries’-old—and completely modernized—farmhouse complex, is a great place to stay for a countryside feel. Reproductions of Caillebotte paintings are sprinkled throughout the property.

 

Chatou

10 miles from Paris by car or RER (Paris-Chatou-Croissy). Total travel time: about 20 minutes

 

You may not know Chatou, but you’ve probably seen it, in one of Impressionism’s most famous paintings: Renoir’s “Luncheon of the Boating Party.” He, along with other artists, loved coming to this island on the Seine—now called Ile des Impressionistes, or Impressionists’ island—to be inspired by the scenes of Parisians who came here to go boating, swim, and dine at the famed Maison Fournaise. The way the light plays off the cloud-dotted Seine is magical.

 

The historic, beautifully restored Maison Fournaise remains open today, where you can dine in the very spot where Renoir’s friends once gathered beneath the iconic vermilion-and-white-striped awning, overlooking the tranquil river. A pathway encircles the isle, with informative tableaux marking the locations where other Impressionist paintings were created.

 

Giverny

47 miles from Paris by car or train (Paris-Vernon then walk, bus, or taxi to Giverny). Total travel time: 1.5 to 2 hours.

 

Giverny needs no introduction, this picturesque village best known for its living tableau of sprightly flowers, cloud-reflecting lily ponds, and a certain famous bridge—all found at the home of the famous Impressionist painter Claude Monet. He moved here in 1883 and stayed for 40 years, cultivating the landscape exactly as he wanted it and painting his most iconic works, including his series of Water Lilies. The charming house and gardens are now a museum, where you can stroll the gardens that change with the seasons, walk across the iconic bridge, and visit the artist’s house.

 

Also located in the sweet and charming town is the Musée des Impressionistes Giverny. This small but mighty museum showcases expertly curated, rotating exhibitions featuring Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works that explore various aspects of Impressionism and its impact on the art world.   

 

 

 

Auvers-sur-Oise

15 miles from Paris by car or train (Paris-Mèry-sur-Oise). Total travel time: about 38 minutes

 

An easy train ride from Paris, this adorable village looks every bit like an Impressionist painting. Indeed, it has changed little since the late 1800s, when artists flocked here to paint its picturesque landscapes, winding lanes, and charming architecture—most famously, Vincent van Gogh. He arrived here in May 1890, and during his brief stay of 70 days, created over 70 paintings, including “Wheatfield with Crows,” “The Church at Auvers,” and “Portrait of Dr. Gachet.” You can wander the iris-lined roads, checking out tableaux positioned exactly where the artists set up their easels to paint scenes that has barely changed since. There’s also the Musée de l’Abinthe, dedicated to the history of this favorite elixir of poets and artists in the 19th century; along with the Musée Daubigny, showcasing artist Charles-François Daubigny, who is considered the first Impressionist painter.

 

 

Van Gogh tragically died in July 1890 in his rented room at the Auberge Ravoux, which has since been restored and reopened as a tribute to the artist. Now called the Maison de Van Gogh, it features the dining room where the artist ate at a tucked-away corner table, as well as the bedroom in which he died. His grave lies nearby at the Cimetière d’Auvers-sur-Oise.

 

Tip: You can’t stay at the auberge, but the nearby Domaine des Vanneaux is a luxe contemporary hotel in a country setting.

 

 

Author Bio:

Highbrow Magazine Contributing Writer Barbara Noe Kennedy is an award-winning writer and editor, who specializes in travel writing. She worked for more than 20 years for the National Geographic Book Division, and she has also written for the Washington Post, National Geographic Traveler, the Los Angeles Times, and Fodor's -- in addition to penning a few books -- including 25 Joys of Paris, which was published recently. She is also a Lowell Thomas travel journalism award winner. Barbara has traveled extensively around the world and, along with her husband, is actively involved in helping Zambian students achieve their education and career goals. She writes travel articles and film reviews for Highbrow Magazine.

 

For Highbrow Magazine

 

Photo and Image Credits: Barbara Noe Kennedy; Depositphotos.com

 

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